First, Select Your Master Cylinder


A G-Body T-56 Clutch Pedal and Master Cylinder Relocation Bracket
that Feels Like an OEM Clutch Setup.

U.S. Customers: $299 + $13.45 shipping


Canada Customers: $299 + $45.95 shipping



For more information, email me at: bduplan [at] gmail.com


Customer Reviews

Lance Hamilton, (SSLance)



"I offered up my car (and left knee) to be a test mule for the SSM clutch pedal and I want to thank Bernie for coming up with this idea. I LOVE it!! I've been driving around with it now since last Saturday and it just makes the car so much nicer to drive...especially in traffic and at stop lights."

Dan Howe (Howehot)



"I used Bernie's, sickspeedmonte, master cylinder bracket and clutch pedal. They installed easily as instructed and worked flawlessly... Worked great and is silky smooth. I recommend this to any fellow G body builder. Now I need a second one for the El Camino." (BTW, I should also mention that Kerry Earnhardt stabbed the pedal a few times during his drive around Daytona with Dan!!)

Trent S

"Wow wow wow...what a difference Bernie. I was able to get it installed last night so I could see the difference between my old set up and the new one. It was very easy for me to swap as I have no glass, or dash in the car. The old set up was stiff, it wasn't to the point that it was undriveable, just could have gotten old real quick in any sort of traffic. I'll be honest, I was a little sceptical at first but that went away very quick after the first time I pressed the pedal in. The pedal now is firm at first and then the pressure breaks and the pedal almost falls away after that. My closest comparison would be a C6 Z06 vette clutch pedal. I would say I lost almost 50% of effort that my previous setup needed. My wife could easily drive the car if needed...(if allowed lol). Very glad I found your product and decided to give it a try."

Doug Lutes, (sicmonte)


I helped Doug with his build day as the G-Body dream-team installed his engine, transmission, rear axle, front and rear suspension kits, and of course, the SSM clutch pedal kit. This is me under the dash finishing up the pedal install. I've spent my fair share of time in that position, so make sure you read the Installation Instructions for tips on how to make it go a little easier!

   This setup is unlike anything else available on the market. The other pedals mount the clutch master cylinder on your firewall. Simply put, the stock G-Body firewall is not designed to locate or support a clutch master cylinder. It ends up in the wrong spot, compromising the geometry of the system. Many who have mounted the master directly to the firewall have also reported stress cracks as well. My design relocates the master cylinder to optimize the kinematics of the linkage. It also supports it from the same area that your brake master cylinder is supported while spreading out the force and reducing stress on the firewall to an acceptable level.

   Sure, you can buy a clutch pedal for cheaper elsewhere. But the pedal will take, literally, twice as much peak force to depress and closer to three times as much force to hold all of the way down. My setup has to cost more because I provide a bracket to correctly locate the master cylinder (which actually costs more and takes longer to fabricate than the pedal itself). I want your clutch pedal to be something you don't have to think about, not something that detracts from enjoying the car.


   The kit includes:

  • Clutch Pedal. (Re-use your stock brake pedal. Simply cut down the foot pad.)
  • Master Cylinder Mounting Bracket. This bracket mounts the clutch master cylinder so that the pedal geometry is uncompromised. It supports factory style LT1 or LS1 F-body master cylinders, which are not included. The newer style McLeod master cylinder (made by Wilwood) is longer than stock and cannot be used without modification to the plumbing or the factory upper control arm.
  • One pair of pedal pivot bushings. Replacements can be found at any parts store.
  • Grade 8 hardware to mount clutch pedal and brake pedal on the existing brake pedal bracket, to mount the pushrod to the pedal, and to mount the clutch master cylinder.
  • Install instructions and information on placement of a hole to allow the pushrod to pass through the firewall can be found here.

   Not included are rubber pedal pad covers (2 required, available from Dorman, GM Restoration Parts, etc). It is also recommended that you install a clutch pushrod boot to the firewall to seal the cabin from the engine compartment. Extra pedal pivot bushings are a Dorman 74016.

   For any questions or to place an order, you can contact me via email at bduplan@gmail.com


   A little background: In 2004, I swapped a ZF 6 speed into my car using a master cylinder out of an S10. I mounted the master on the firewall and I connected the pushrod to my clutch pedal. After bleeding the system, the pedal released the clutch disc but it was very stiff. I was so happy to have a Monte with a manual transmission that I just dealt with it.

   Now, I wish I hadn't. I am almost positive that the clutch pedal is the reason for my knee discomfort and popping. After purchasing a welder, (and earning a Mechanical Engineering degree from UMD,) I decided that enough was enough and tore out my old clutch setup. I was going to come up with a solution to this problem, one way or another. What I ended up with was a pedal that could be depressed by hand... with two fingers. At first, it was actually too easy and I had to stiffen it up.

Click The Picture For Video PROOF
(The new design with its pedal bushings does not creek like this.)

Bernie Duplan (Me!)

Photo Credits to Brian Tobey

   This made driving the car so much more enjoyable.

   Eventually, a friend (Adam, Sixtoes1616) installed an F-body T-56 in his car with the LS1 F-Body hydraulic clutch setup. He mounted the master directly on the firewall, and he too ended up with a very stiff pedal. Luckily, he didn't wait as long as I did before doing something about it. This was my opportunity to adapt the concept of my design to the more common F-Body hydraulic system. So I purchased a master cylinder, cut the floor and firewall out of a junkyard car, and had at it. Once I was happy with it, we installed it in his car (with his old-style McLeod master cylinder) and it made a huge difference.

   The setup was tested out in one other car (Lance, SSLance) as well to ensure that the system worked properly with LT1 hydraulics (external slave cylinder). He says that he loves it and it makes a huge difference.